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In Indian fiction, the courtesan has been known by many names through the ages: from apsara in her divine form, to gayika, devdasi, kanchan, tawaif and nautch girl. “Historians, sociologists and writers have done little justice to the ‘nautch’ girl, depicting her as a vamp or showgirl,” says Tahiliani. “In fact, they were the arbiters of our heritage of classical dance and music, both considered divine traditions in our cultural heritage,” he says of the origin of his design ideology for this season.
Couture 2016 is about working in all the components of opulence without weighing the bride down. Tahiliani uses Swarovski crystals with cotton jacquards, cotton silks, crepes and cutwork jamdanis for his collection, ‘The Last Dance of the Courtesan’.
Regardless of a skewed character sketch, the courtesan was always considered the epitome of beauty and feminine grace, often trained in the classical arts. Tarun Tahiliani draws the parallel in the functionality of the courtesan’s wardrobe and the desired ease in bridal couture today. Much like the courtesans’ clothes, women today are on the lookout for something “highly sophisticated, of a modern construction, lighter to wear, so that one can dance in the mind and body, and not be dragging around a burden, as was wont to happen,” says Tahiliani.
Tarun Tahiliani might be a veteran, but with each passing season, remains a go-to choice for many brides not just because of opulence of his creations but an evolving mindset apparent in his brand, that understands customer demographics and attends to the changes in their needs. The designer explains in his own words, “Once you get comfortable in western outfits, people get used to the fit and proportion so they start enjoying well cut and fitted clothes, which are easy to move around in. One can be traditional, but I hate the idea of living in the past. Tomorrow must have freshness.”
Take a look at the video to hear about the collection and collaboration with Swarovski from the designer himself, and check out the slideshow below for the sketches and campaign images.
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